Notes from the field
Day 9
It is hugely encouraging to find such vigorously growing, intact coral colonies covering 70 - >90% of the reef, the GPS says 1 deg 44.366 mins N; 128 deg 4.10 mins E. The exposed site had more robust colonies of varying shapes and sizes, with some table corals reaching nearly 3m across. The corals were other worldly – large fragile colonies of pencil thin branching corals and huge tables. All of this indicates little disturbance to these sites and the enduring nature of the coral communities here. However, there clearly was evidences of major and widespread coral mortality 10 or more years ago. The team will focus on trying to determine the cause if at all possible, but it is likely either bleaching linked to the worldwide 1998 bleaching or a major crown-of-thorns starfish infestation. Seven Seas anchored this evening in a bay that is alive with anchovies. They are like silver spray in our lights around us. Its little wonder we saw a Brydes whale on our way into the bay.
Day 10
Sadly today the team found that cyanide fishers are at work here in the Kau Bay (0 deg 52.816 mins N; 127 deg 41.730 mins E). In sheltered areas boulder corals topped by castellations and spires were seen, creating a surreal seascape fitting of the Lord of the Rings. But the cyanide has left its tell-tale white patches in the stagshorn coral surrounding a hole dug in to remove the stunned fish.
Uda and Erdi, who are measuring benthic cover at 12m and 4m depths, an average of 50% hard coral cover was found at Sidanga Island, Northern Cape of Loloda Selatan Island, Tagalaya Island, and Takau Island, but rreaches over 75% at the best location. The overall average at these two depths is only about 31% and is higher at the shallower depth. Coral rubble dominates at several sites caused by blast fishing. Some sites had good recruitment as shown by many small hard coral colonies.
Day 11 (1deg 31.367mins N; 128deg 43.548mins E)
The land team got wind of an apparent major leatherback nesting beach, so a few of them landed and decided to walk the 15 km beach. That was the beginning of quite an adventure, wading across two estuaries, one that had a strong current flowing out to sea and apparently some river crocodiles. They did find the tracks of nesting Olive Ridleys turtles and further evidence that their eggs were collected by people. The boatman offshore got caught in an unfortunate huge wave which tipped the boat over and left them fighting to right it in the surf and then contemplate their next move. The team managed to swim the boat out through the surf with some difficulty and help of some great swimmers from the nearby tiny village.
New species discovered!
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Today the team sailed into Buli Bay (0 deg 44.005 mins N, 128 deg 27.121 mins E), said goodbye to Rod and Kent, and welcomed Joanne and Sterling to the survey team. They had a morning out of the water this morning, a welcome change to have a rest from diving, if only for a couple of hours, gave them all a change to relax a bit and catch up on their homework (processing data and specimens).
The last couple of days have been very interesting as they make their way around Halmahera. The coral reef fauna is changing now they are on the eastern side of the island; more Pacific species. One of the reasons that Halmahera is so diverse is that it is in Indonesia, where the Pacific and Indian Oceans collide. So it is where species from both oceans overlap.
Day 13
Spent the day diving in Buli Bay, the first dive was on Woi Reef, in the middle of the bay. This was the first time they have seen evidence of a serious outbreak of the crown of thorns starfish, a species often presents on reefs in low numbers.
The reason for these outbreaks is one of the most hotly debated issues in marine science, particularly whether they are linked to human impacts or not. When aggregated in an outbreak, the starfish can produce huge numbers (billions) of larvae and hence their populations are prone to major fluctuations. Enhanced nutrients in the water contribute to higher survival of starfish larvae, while overfishing of starfish predators can also promote their survival – a form of positive feedback. These days, most scientists believe outbreaks are caused by declining water quality and overfishing linked to human impacts.
Day 14-16
Went for another dive in Buli Bay (0 deg 50.515 mins N,128 deg 26.766 mins E) today, and found a reef that seems to have escaped the crown-of-thorns starfish outbreak. In the shallows there were many large table corals and good coral cover. The team also found a remarkable colony of Porites rus, with 3m high spires, estimated to be over two hundred years old.
Joanne made an interesting discovery, eggs in some of the branching corals! This is exciting because very little is known about coral reproduction in Indonesia.The team will investigate this further.
Another exciting moment was when Mark Erdmann – the mantis shrimp expert – made an exciting discovery on the northeastern side of Halmahera. He discovered a species of mantis shrimp that is completely new to science. Mantis shrimps come in many shapes and sizes, some are quite large (about 35cm long), while others are very small (about 1cm). The new species is tiny (about 1cm long), and it was amazing that Mark could find it among the startling complexity of a coral reef. Despite its small size, the new species is a smasher!
EXPEDITION ENDS
Day 18 April 30th Teluk Buli (Buli Bay) Coordinates N 00o 47.457’ E 128 o 19.279’
Unfortunately our excellent adventure has come to an end sooner than we planned. Apparently there is an issue with one of our permits, which only came to light in the last couple of days.Of course we are disappointed, but are counting our blessings. We have had the most amazing experience over the last couple of weeks, diving on some of the most diverse and spectacular coral reefs in the world – exploring new places, seeing new things, and compiling management recommendations that will help the provincial government implement conservation measures to ensure these reefs continue to prosper into the future.
One of the highlights of the trip has been the extraordinary team of experts on this trip. The international experts are among the best in the world. They are extremely knowledgeable about coral reefs, very generous with their skills and knowledge, and are always a pleasure to work with. The Indonesian team members are also a remarkable group of people, each an expert in their chosen fields with valuable local knowledge and experience.
One of the best parts of this survey has been watching the local and international scientists interact. The last few nights we have sat in the moonlight on the top deck having detailed discussions about coral reefs - their biodiversity, biogeography, ecology and evolution. The whole team was involved – for hours at a time. Lyndon and Emre led a discussion about disturbances, focused on corals and crown of thorns starfish, and Gerry led a discussion about biogeography and evolution of coral reef fishes. It was great watching the level of interest and discussion between the groups of scientists, and an excellent way to end the survey.
Great friendships have been made, both personal and professional, which will continue long after this trip is over. Several of the Indonesian participants are interested in studying overseas, and the international scientists will help them with their aspirations. All of the international experts are looking forward to returning to Indonesia, to survey these extraordinary reefs again and spend more time with their Indonesian colleagues in the field.
The survey has been a remarkable experience, and one we will never forget. Halmahera is an extraordinary place – the heart of the heart of the Coral Triangle.
Ali and the survey team
