An Introduction to Madagascar
I wake up to a relentless squealing sound. I check the time, it’s 4:30 am. A bit groggy at first, but soon my mind clears and I realize it’s the weekly morning kisoa (Malagasy for pig) being slaughtered. Outside, the light is dim, but I see a few clouds parting making way for the first rays of the sun. I try to block out the noise and force myself to sleep. An hour later I stir from my slumber once again, this time to be woken up by melodious hymns seeping in from the church opposite.
I decide not fight it anymore, and instead rise with the Malagasy community of the village Vondrozo. By 6am, it is bright outside. I know that the afternoon will bring heat and humidity, not to mention hoards of children that come flocking to our door. But it’s a new day and my fellow volunteers and I go out to tackle our Malagasy lessons.
As I walk to the WWF office in Vondrozo, I come across a stall owned by a thin woman with a rather curious hairstyle, it reminded me of mini croissants parked on a dark shiny head. She is dressed in bright clothing with prints depicting an everyday scene; a herd of zebu. Her stall sells the popular Manoik vegetable that has been deep fried. I walk further on to see a garbage dump near a small shop selling sweets, peanuts, alcohol, Coca-cola, Fanta, Sprite – all delicately balanced on rickety shelves. The main residents of the garbage area are ducks, geese, and the odd chicken competing for scraps of food and whatever they can find. A woman stops, stares and then resumes bathing her little son with water poured from a plastic mug in a bucket. Life seems to stand still and there is no sense of urgency for the relaxed and simple folk of Vondrozo. I feel the urge to stand and stare as well, but realize that I too must be quite a strange sight for them!
By the end of our lessons it is evening, and with that comes the cool evening breeze, bringing relief after a hot and humid day. We hear singing, and as we approach, see locals dancing merrily to music amplified by big speakers and microphones. My friends and I join the fun dancing and singing till about 8pm. Now it is time to retire and I look forward to another day in Madagascar.